Extremely useful, helpful, and practical guide for anyone starting a footwear brand. Step-by-step pattern making with illustrations that are clear and easy to follow. Straightforward last design templates, photographs, and specific tools help you understand last design processes which are crucial to the fit, style, and comfort of your project. All the in and outs in one easy to understand guide. Written and illustrated by an actual world class nuts and bolts shoemaker.
Do you want to learn how to make shoe patterns? Do you know how to design a last for a high-heeled fashion shoe, a sneaker, or dress shoe? In Footwear Pattern Making and Last Design, we will teach you the shoe last design process and detail the basic techniques of footwear pattern making.
Pattern Making For Fashion Design 4th Edition Pdf Free 11
This book covers the craft of footwear pattern making, including a step-by-step guide to patternmaking for beginners. Hundreds of color photos illustrate the patternmaking process. See and compare sample patterns for joggers, hi-top sneakers, high-heels, and many other shoes. Learn patternmaking procedures, how to make a sneaker forme, computer-aided design software for pattern making, and shoe pattern grading.
CHAPTER 1 : THE LAST IS FIRST The shoe last design, parts of the last, technical terminology of the shoe last.Shoemaking pattern points and construction lines.Last dimensions and how to measure the shoe last.How is the shoe last different from the human foot?
CHAPTER 8: HOW TO MAKE THE LAST FORMEHow to make the shell pattern or forme of the last.The principle of reversibility and lasting pressure.Taping the last and slotted pattern forme making procedures.
CHAPTER 9: PATTERN MAKING PROCEDURESStep-by-step guide to footwear pattern making.Creating sectional patterns for sports shoes and fashion shoes.How to draw on the last and cut the sectional pattern.How to make a sneaker pattern.
CHAPTER 10: COMPUTER-AIDED PATTERN MAKING The basics of computer-aided pattern making.Importing the last, projecting the pattern in 2D, and 3D pattern rendering.Creating the digital sectional pattern.How to make a simple shoe pattern.
Highly recommend. Updated information of this sort has been hard to find and this book is well done and easy to follow. The photos are great and really helped me to understand the patternmaking and last design processes.
In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto woven or knitted fabrics before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper, and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use. The process of making or cutting patterns is sometimes compounded to the one-word Patternmaking, but it can also be written pattern(-)making or pattern cutting.
Several companies, like Butterick and Simplicity, specialize in selling pre-graded patterns directly to consumers who will sew the patterns at home. Commercial clothing manufacturers make their own patterns in-house as part of their design and production process, usually employing at least one specialized patternmaker. In bespoke clothing, slopers and patterns must be developed for each client, while for commercial production, patterns will be made to fit several standard body sizes.
The flat-pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat surface from measurements, using rulers, curves and straight-edges. A pattern maker would also use various tools such as a notcher, drill and awl to mark the pattern. Usually, flat patterning begins with the creation of a sloper or block pattern, a simple, fitted garment made to the wearer's measurements. For women, this will usually be a jewel-neck bodice and narrow skirt, and for men an upper sloper and a pants sloper. The final sloper pattern is usually made of cardboard or paperboard, without seam allowances or style details (thicker paper or cardboard allows repeated tracing and pattern development from the original sloper). Once the shape of the sloper has been refined by making a series of mock-up garments called toiles (UK) or muslins (US) or Nessel[1] in German, the final sloper can be used in turn to create patterns for many styles of garments with varying necklines, sleeves, dart placements, and so on. The flat pattern drafting method is the most commonly used method in menswear; menswear rarely involves draping. You can learn pattern drafting on many fashion design courses either on a short further education course or as part of a Fashion degree at a university.
There are different pattern systems such as Müller & Sohn etc.,[3][4] for women's outerwear and underwear, for men's clothing and for children's clothing. Special knit patterns are used for knitted fabrics. The model patterns are developed from the basic bodice pattern. Special rulers and the tracing wheel are used for this. The paper cuts are transferred to card stock as they need to be sturdier to withstand repeated use. Each manufacturer has their own size ranges. A distinction is made between basic pattern, first pattern and production pattern. Patternmaker grade the first cuts to the desired size with the aid of CAD software (computer-aided design). The production pattern must contain all the information necessary for production and all the necessary parts. The collections are produced in sets of sizes. The customer has the garment altered after purchase if necessary.
Some dress forms are adjustable to match the wearer's unique measurements, and the muslin is fit around the form accordingly. By taking it in or letting it out, a smaller or larger fit can be made from the original patternSo, a sewer may choose a standard size (usually from the wearer's bust measurement) that has been pre-graded on a purchased pattern. They may decide to tailor or adjust a pattern to improve the fit or style for the garment wearer, using French curves, hip curves, and cutting or folding on straight edges. There are alternate methods, either directly on flat pattern pieces from measurements, using a pre-draped personalized sloper or using draping methods on a dress form with inexpensive inelastic plain weaved fabrics like canvas.Creating a sample from canvas is another method of making patterns. Canvas-fabric is inexpensive, not elastic and made from Urticaceae. It is easy to work with when making quick adjustments by pinning the fabric around the wearer or a dress form. The sewer cuts the pieces using the same method that they will use for the actual garment, according to a pattern. The pieces are then fit together and darts and other adjustments are made. This provides the sewer with measurements to use as a guideline for marking the patterns and cutting the fabric for the finished garment.[5]
Pattern grading is the process of shrinking or enlarging a finished pattern to accommodate it to people of different sizes. Grading rules determine how patterns increase or decrease to create different sizes. Fabric type also influences pattern grading standards. The cost of pattern grading is incomplete without considering marker making.
The majority of modern-day home sewing patterns contain multiple sizes in one pattern. Once a pattern is removed from a package, you can either cut the pattern based on the size you will be making or you can preserve the pattern by tracing it. The pattern is traced onto fabric using one of several methods. In one method, tracing paper with transferable ink on one side is placed between the pattern and the fabric. A tracing wheel is moved over the pattern outlines, transferring the markings onto the fabric with ink that is removable by erasing or washing.[10] In another method, tracing paper is laid directly over a purchased pattern, and the pieces are traced. The pieces are cut, then the tracing paper is pinned and/or basted to the fabric. The fabric can then be cut to match the outlines on the tracing paper. Vintage patterns may come with small holes pre-punched into the pattern paper. These are for creating tailor's tacks, a type of basting where thread is sewn into the fabric in short lengths to serve as a guideline for cutting and assembling fabric pieces.
Patternmaking for Fashion Design, 5th edition, international edition, is the easy-to-understand, detailed guide to patternmaking that provides you with all the information necessary to create design patterns accurately, regardless of their complexity. The text follows the notion that all designs are based on one or more of the three major patternmaking design principles (dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring) and returns to them throughout, teaching you how to address and master these principles.
A practical introduction to patternmaking, the book includes discussions about the workroom, the model form and measuring techniques, and how to draft the basic pattern set. Along with complete coverage of the three steps of design patterns, the text includes chapter projects to help you develop your skills and understanding.
This latest edition has been updated with modern, cutting-edge sketches and designs to aid your learning as well as advanced design projects that have been added to selected chapters. Comparisons of human variations and examples of how to take and record personal measurements now help you adjust your designs for all body types.
Our online software (the Lab) automatically drafts made-to-measure or custom fitting digital basic blocks/ slopers /basic sewing patterns to fit you or your clients measurements exactly. We then provide them as either multi-page PDF sewing patterns or fully-editable digital basic blocks. These digital patterns can then be adapted to become any design or style using our digital pattern making tutorials. 2ff7e9595c
Comments